Mar
1
2010
Oct
20
2009
Mini 8 Releasable Block
Rock Exotica developed two new figure eight devices - the mini and the micro - for special ops teams. I managed to get my hands on one of each and have been experimenting to see if I can come up with canyoneering applications.
The photo shows the mini eight rigged as a releasable block. Haven’t rappelled on it or lowered anyone with it, but it seems quick secure even without a safety carabiner added.
The loop going over the neck would be the lowering mechanism. I made a twist in the rope on the brake strand before looping it over the two horns. Kinda like a cleat hitch.
Oct
14
2009
Pirate Carabiners
Article by Rich Carlson
No, this thread is not about bootleg or counterfeit carabiners. This is a gear review of the Pirate Carabiner made by Rock Exotica.
Rock Exotica, if you haven’t heard of them is the company in Clearfield, Utah, famous for manufacturing the Rescuescender, the Arizona Vortex Rescue Tripod and the Omni Block Pulleys used in Aztec Rescue Kits. They are also the company that makes Petzl’s carabiners and now my Totem rappelling and rigging device. The company has its own line of carabiners; most of them steel for rescue applications. They asked me to give their aluminum Pirate carabiner a try for canyoneering. I did and I like it.
The Pirate closely resembles a Petzl Attache. Beefy stock, 0.47 inch diameter. Attache is gold. Pirate is copper-colored. Along the major axis, the Attache is rated to 23 kN, while the Pirate is rated to 26. On the minor axis, the Attache is rated to 7 kN, while the pirate is rated to 11. The Pirate is slightly longer — 4.2 inches — compared to the Attache at 3.9 inches.
While both carabiners are HMS (pear-shaped) the Pirate is slightly longer on the spine side, giving it a bit more D shape. This allows more of the load to settle along the spine, thus the extra major axis strength.
Extra strength on the minor axis can likely be attributed to the fact that the gate barrel screws farther up the nose than the Attache’s barrel.
The Pirate’s gate is slightly offset, allowing for a greater gate opening than the Attache. It also has cute features like a padlock image with an arrow showing the correct direction to turn the gate barrel to lock it and a skull and cross bones that is visible when the carabiner is not locked.
I believe the Pirate is destined to become my new favorite utility carabiner for canyoneering. I have but one reservation in recommending it … At the end of the day when we’re sorting gear it is easy for me to spot my copper-colored Pirate carabiners. It will get complicated again when all of you start using Pirates, too.
Dec
31
2008
Racking Gear
Article by Rich Carlson
 Proper racking of gear on your harness can make a big difference in efficiency and safety. The photo on the right illustrates poorly racked gear.
Some specific errors to note: (1) Slings are clipped loose and dangling. They will snag on branches and points of rock and present a safety hazard. (2) The carabiner at the end of the green daisy chain is clipped to the harness gear loop. Other carabiners are clipped to it. If this canyoneer needs to clip into an anchor with his daisy, he’ll first have to move other gear around. Very inefficient. (3) Too much gear is hanging from the harness. It will scrape against rocks (especially in narrow secitions of canyon) and may become damaged. Some of the gear could be carried in a pack instead. |
|
|
 The photo on the right illustrates much more efficient gear racking.
Note how the sling and prussik are neatly twisted and tied so they stay in a tight bundle. All gear is well-organized. Dissimilar gear is clipped directly to the gear loops, not to other gear, so all gear is easily accessible when needed. The more skills you have, the less gear you need to carry. |
