Article by Rich Carlson
The stone knot (AKA stein knot) is used to isolate two strands of rope. It is useful to gain efficiency on short rappels where more time is spent by people rigging and de-rigging their rappel devices than is spent on the actual rappel. Using the stone, while one person is rappelling, another person can be rigging. As soon as the first person is on the ground, the second person can start rappelling and a third person can start rigging.
The last person down simply removes the carabiner, the knot (more accurately called a hitch) falls apart, leaving the rope ready for a double-strand rappel.
The Stone Eight
The stone eight functions like a stone knot and like the stone knot can be installed anywhere on the rope.
To rig the stone eight pull both strands of rope through the big hole of the figure eight, give them a half twist, then pass the loop of over the small end of the figure eight. Look closely at the photo. If it is rigged correctly, the strands of rope coming out the bottom of the figure eight will pinch the upper strands against the figure eight.
As a safety backup, clip a carabiner into the small hole of the figure eight and around both strands of rope below the figure eight. This is done to prevent the rope from coming off the small end of the figure eight when the ropes are not under tension.
The Joker
The joker works like the stone knot, but can also function as a contingency anchor. If someone becomes stuck on one strand – and there is nobody on the other strand – the system can be released for lowering.
The photo illustrates the joker rigged with a double eight (SFD8). It can also be rigged with two normal figure eights set up in opposing directions. Unlike the stone knot and stone eight, the joker must be rigged at the anchor, connected to the anchor using a canyon quickdraw.
While the rope is wrapped around both “ears”, there is enough friction in play to keep the rappel strand from slipping. If someone is rappelling on one strand and becomes stuck, the rope can be removed from the ear on the opposite side. This strand of rope then becomes the brake strand that controls lowering.
As a safety backup, use a second canyon quickdraw. Clip a carabiner into each “ear” of the joker. If you need to release the system, unclip the carabiner from the ear opposite of the rappel strand. With the safety carabiner out of the way, remove the brake strand from the ear and begin lowering.
Share on Facebook
Tweet This Post
